TA audio narrative: in the South Island
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TA Day 127, Invercargill to Bluff, 34 km
As much as I love the alicoop, it is so nice to sleep in a bed – though my dreams…Read
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TA Day 126, Riverton to Invercargill, 33 km
Again stars were working overtime, but in the grassy dip set aside for Te Araroa tents, dew built up on…Read
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TA Day 125, Colac Bay to Riverton, 24 km
Stars are shining when I poke my head out of the alicoop, though clouds crowd in as I stroll to…Read
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TA Day 124, Martin’s Hut to Colac Bay, 24 km
Ian and Wendy are up first, speaking in whispers, their lights aiming down. My head is mere inches from the…Read
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TA Day 123, Merivale Road to Martin’s Hut, 29 km
I can see stars when I wake up, but fall is settling in and it’s pitch dark now. I organize…Read
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TA Day 122, ‘zero day’ Otautau
I only have a few things to share from this very lazy day of reading, writing, editing, eating and giggling…Read
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TA audio narrative: trail detour
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TA Day 121, ‘zero day’ Otautau
I tossed and turned last night, waking momentarily to see a waning gibbous moon perched on a cloud. My day…Read
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TA Day 120, Birchwood to Merrivale Hut, 28 km
I wake with the others in the bunk room, a bit groggy and hung over from the drama of the…Read
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TA Day 119, Lower Wairaki Hut to Birchwood, 36 km
Rain fell all night. I am so happy that I stayed in a hut, tucked into my bunk with my…Read
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TA Day 118 Lower Princhester Hut to Lower Wairaki Hut, 31 km
I’m awakened by birds peeping in that silver flute tone of theirs, the sky barely light. I am more of…Read
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TA Day 117, Mavora Lake to Lower Princhester Hut, 22 km
A clear, windy night gave way to a rainy, windy night. Even with piles of rocks, one stake slips out…Read
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TA Day 116, Taipo Hut to Mavora Lake, 27 km
The stars were electric last night, even as the super moon made a grand entrance, lighting up one stray cloud…Read
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TA Day 115, McKellar Hut to Taipo Hut, 28 km
It’s a night shared with smokers, door slammers and snorers, but it turns out to be pretty fun in a…Read
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TA Day 114, ‘detour’ Routeburn River to McKellar Hut, 38 km
It rained all night. I am dry and warm in the alicoop, but I don’t think I can hike an…Read
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TA Day 113, Arrowtown to Routeburn Track, 30 km
I’m up before dawn, quietly moving my gear into the common room so I can pack loudly. Someone on the…Read
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TA Day 112, Roses Hut to Arrowtown, 24 km
The stars did not disappoint. I checked often through the night, the nearly full moon lighting up this wild landscape.…Read
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TA audio narrative: hitting a wall
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TA Day 111, Fern Burn Hut to Roses Hut, 17 km
Walking is the natural recreation for a (wo)man who desires not absolutely to suppress (her) intellect but to turn it…Read
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TA Day 110, Wanaka to Fern Burn Hut, 27 km
The morning is lazy because I have to wait for the bank to open. I load up on more calories,…Read
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TA Day 109, ‘zero day’ Wanaka
Pink sky in the morning, hiker take warning. Good thing I planned a rest day as the clouds move in,…Read
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TA Day 108, side trip! Rob Roy Glacier, Mt. Aspiring National Park
Pink light glows on the mountains and glaciers. A perfect sky for a day trip. Harry and I have been…Read
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TA audio narrative: water, water everywhere
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TA audio narrative: chasing clear skies
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TA audio narrative: hut life
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TA Day 107, Hawea to Wanaka, 25 km
It rained nearly all night on the alicoop in this odd carved out campground above the hotel. Self-contained vehicles hemmed…Read
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TA Day 106, Stodys Hut to Hawea, 22 km
The cure for loneliness, is solitude. —Marianne Moore Waking up this morning felt like a new start on a new…Read
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TA Day 105, Tin Hut to Stodys Hut, 27 km
A perfect sleep in a perfect, tiny historic musterer’s hut opens with pink clouds and orange light on the grassy…Read
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TA Day 104, Freehold Creek to Tin Hut, 30 km
Being alone is, we know, the best chance you have to be yourself, which is in turn the seed of…Read
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TA Day 103, Twizel to Freehold Creek, (29 km) + 6 km
At some point in life the world’s beauty becomes enough. —Toni Morrison The stars were spectacular overnight and I slept…Read
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TA Day 102, Tekapo to Twizel, (54 km)
I slept poorly last night with all the rustling about, phones going off and generally being stressed out knowing I…Read
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TA Day 101, After Washdyke Stream on Richmond Track to Tekapo, 26 km
Ah, the stars last night! Twinkling diamonds on black velvet, the milky way a gentle twist. The morning opens with…Read
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TA Day 100, Royal Hut to after Washdyke Stream, 26 km
Contrary to Alan from Dunedin’s prediction, the day opens crystal clear, ready for our eyes to take in some of…Read
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TA Day 99, Crooked Spur Hut to Royal Hut, 16 km
The morning begins with the Kiwi couple talking, rustling in their plastic food bags and letting the door bang shut…Read
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TA Day 98, Potts River Bridge Car Park to Crooked Spur Hut, 17 km + 14 km
The wind dies down and the possums come out, climbing the tree above my head and chattering to each other.…Read
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TA Day 97, Manuka Hut to Potts River Bridge Car Park, 33 km
It’s cozy on my bunk as the sky begins to lighten. I’m up first heading to the longdrop on a…Read
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TA Day 96, A-frame Hut to Manuka Hut, 28 km
The wild wind blew open the door of the hut, even after we placed a rock to hold it shut.…Read
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TA Day 95, Harper River Camping Area to A-Frame Hut, 32 km
Such a lovely night with brilliant stars and later a crescent moon on her side. People arrive late and release…Read
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TA Day 94, Hamilton Hut to Harper River Camping Area, 20 km
I know the joy of fishes in the river through my own joy, as I go walking along the same…Read
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TA Day 93, State Highway 73 to Hamilton Hut, 26 km
Alessio and I close up the bach, pack up and head to the road by 7 to hitch rides –…Read
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TA Day 92, zero day, Arthur’s Pass
I slept in late on this well deserved break day staying at a friend of a friend’s bach – pronounced…Read
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TA Day 91, Goat Pass Hut to State Highway 73, 10 km
The rain slashed against the windows all night. Was it wind making it sound heavier than it is or will…Read
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TA Day 90, Kiwi Hut to Goat Pass Hut, 28 km
My alarm goes off at 5:30 playing Billy McGlaughlin’s Finger Dance on full volume, but it’s still dark. I can…Read
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TA Day 89, Hurunui No. 3 Hut to Kiwi Hut, 23 km
The moonlight filled the tiny windows of the hut as I slept. The first morning I’m not flying out of…Read
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TA Day 88, Hope Halfway Shelter to Hurunui No. 3 Hut, 36 km
The morning begins cloudy, chilly, but no rain. I am up first, packed and ready to leave this over-stuffed hut.…Read
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TA Day 87, Boyle Flat Hut to Hope Halfway Shelter, 32 km
It rains all night and I wake up so glad I walked both passes in reasonably good weather and that…Read
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TA Day 86, Waiau Hut to Boyle Flat Hut, 43 km
Kuba’s alarm wakes us in the morning. Usually just the sunrise gets me up, but last night there was a…Read
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TA Day 85, Blue Lake Hut to Waiau Hut, 17 km
Rain spatters the windows as the sky lightens, though wind seems to have stilled. Snoring and adjusting keeps me awake,…Read
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TA Day 84, Upper Travers Hut to Blue Lake Hut, 16 km
Charley’s alarm wakes me around 5. He has plans to cross both passes today – and I’m sure he’ll do…Read
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TA Day 83, St. Arnaud to Upper Travers Hut, 30 km
Doesn’t everything die at last, and too soon? Tell me, what is it you plan to do. With your one…Read
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TA Day 82, Red Hills Hut to St. Arnaud, 21 km
This morning I wake up on the edge of Mount Richmond Forest Park and say goodbye to this glorious –…Read
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TA Day 81, Top Wairoa Hut to Red Hills Hut, 29 km
I awake with a jolt from nightmares. I’d gone home trying to explain what I’m doing and then had one…Read
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TA Day 80, Rintoul Hut to Top Wairoa Hut, 22 km
I grab two bars, pack Olive Oyl and head up Purple Top before sunrise. A family of goats meets me…Read
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TA Day 79, Slaty Hut to Rintoul Hut, 13 km
The hut rattles and shakes in the wind, but when I step outside for the loo, it’s not cold. I…Read
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TA Day 78, Hacket Track car park to Slaty Hut, 18 km
Maggie brings me outside when I wake up to show me my good luck charm – a rainbow. Cary joins…Read
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TA Day 77, Side trip! Abel Tasman National Park
Today is my second side trip, to beautiful Abel Tasman park. Steve makes a plan and we head out with…Read
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TA Day 76, zero day, Nelson
“It’s hard to be more perfect than right now,” says Steve as we sit on his beautiful deck overlooking a…Read
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TA Day 75, Captain Creek Hut to Hacket Track car park, 29 km
I sleep well outside. It’s cooler and the stars come out, diamonds displayed on black velvet. There’s no relief from…Read
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TA Day 74, Kaiuma Bay Road to Captain Creek Hut, 32 km
Tui and Sam’s loud morning stretch greet the day, overcast, just how I like it. It’s a different world down…Read
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TA Day 73, Onahua Lookout to Kaiuma Bay Road – 44 km
A couple of kids do arrive last night, just as the sun goes down behind a mountain. They bring good…Read
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TA Day 72, Camp Madsen to Onahau lookout, 37 km
Q: Why did the weka shriek before the sun came up? A: Because he can. To be fair there were…Read
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TA Day 71, Ship Cove to Madsen Camp, 17 km
I needed to get up before 5 am to catch the ferry, but what a treat for Raf to take…Read
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