TA Day 43, Ongarue to Taumarunui – 27 km

Up early just as the sun is coming up, my favorite time of day. I’m happy to have found a group of hikers because the coming days will be confusing. The weather is going to be awful and I’ll need to do sections out of order. Likely we’ll all canoe the seven days on the Whanganui together.

So many people speak about the incredible community that is backpackers. I did meet some nice people last night, but one American is a real downer. Actually I read one of his facebook arguments with the TA page manager before I arrived in New Zealand and was shocked by his manner. He was arrogant, dismissive and aggressive. I had hoped I’d never encounter him and here he is. Within a few minutes of meeting, he already put down what I was saying. Then it happened and again – and again. How do people like this survive? Hopefully others make up for such a jerk.

It was a beautiful place to sleep but the animals cried all night long. Nice to be walking in just bird sound, though the farmers seem to prefer American hits of the ‘80s, even at 6 am.

My mom used to tell me I expect too much from people. I probably could have done more homework before coming and not relied on others. The trail notes overwhelm me and I have tried to stay ahead by just a few days, but this trail is young and more a suggested route than path. So many decisions have to be made every day.

I pass a shearing operation. American hits cranked – of course – as four strong guys in ‘wife-beaters’ work on the sheep; smelly, messy, but they move in a kind of choreographed dance – the shearer leading and the sheep docile followers. The next shed down the road plays Thin Lizzie.

I stop at Taane’s Manor for a rest, gnomes and little toadstool tables in a quiet garden. They’re closed, but a Maori gardener named Henry shares sweet coffee and his philosophy, a kind of mix of Christianity and matriarch-based wisdom. “Talk to the mother while you walk,” he tells me. I pass a cluster of neat homes festooned with lawn ornaments and Henry’s marae of which he is so proud plus a Monet-esque lily pond and bridge.

I finally arrive in Taumaruni and the first sign of civilization? McDonald’s. Met a lovely old kiwi who finally was able to ride his scooter to the golf course. As I walk up the street, several hikers call out – the ones I was with on the river but lost when I stayed with the trail angel. They have plans to walk and canoe and I ask if I can come along. We set it up meaning we’ll walk for three to four days and meet the canoes after the crossing.

Weather is very iffy, but I am giving it a try. I like these men – Croatian, French and Korean – straight shooters, no nonsense. The river is below this stunning canoe hire; we camp in a container with some mattresses and easy chairs. Not exactly a rest day, but after this complicated section that has to be tackled by group, there will be time to rest. Fingers crossed it’s the right decision. I buy heaps of food and heaps of beer-to-share and load in barrels to meet us after four days hiking.

The adventure continues.

Reader Comments

  1. Good whatever part of day it is in New Zealand when you read this. I’m still a faithful follower. Your blog is like a serial novel with new adventurers and new characters introduced every chapter…and I can’t read ahead. Some characters appear, then disappear though the protagonist is a continuing presence. I’m rooting for her.
    Stay dry(ish) and I’ll be patient, waiting for the next installment.

  2. My spouse and I are following you each day, Alison! We are enjoying your trip, the ups and downs (both literal and figurative!) together each morning. You’ve done a lot with a lot to come. Courage!

  3. Like Ken Hains,I am readily,waiting for the next installment of the adventure I don’t even try to predict. New characters, new problems to sort through, new moments of bliss. The last photo looked like it was shortchanged from the door step of BaggEnd. The through line on this is the continued observations, thoughts, insights, sometimes epiphanies of Alison…thank you!

  4. That last photo … stunning … so real, surreal. What a gift to encounter scenes like this amidst everyday and extraordinary life challenges!

  5. Met your husband at MPR TOday cuz he saw my “flydisc “ license plate
    I was there being interviewed by Jayne S for Climate Cast and then Rich tells me you are hiking the length of NZ GOOD ON YOU ALISON
    We are headed there March 4-April 16 and now I’m following you and your hubby is helping us set up our NZ- Borneo site like yours the Kiwi ~ Orangutan Trail

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