Tomorrow I fly to Nepal.
Not for a cushy tourist trek with tea house beds, hot showers and helicopter pickups when the going gets tough.
Nope! As a belated 60th birthday present to myself, I’ve chosen something a whole lot wilder for my first visit: a demanding 34-day expedition of high altitude paths across one of Nepal’s most remote regions. I’ll be walking the far-eastern section of what’s called the Great Himalaya Trail from Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, to Makalu, the fifth.
Why now?
Back in the mid-‘90s I visited my father while he was posted as a Foreign Service Officer in Pakistan. I had the great fortune to join a group on a trek in the Karakoram up the Baltoro Glacier to K2 Base Camp. It was wild, rugged, and unforgettable, one of the defining adventures of my life.
But I never made it to the Himalayas and something always felt a little unfinished. So this trek is my chance to close that loop.
The GHT
The Great Himalayan Trail (GHT for short) follows “the highest feasible route across the Himalaya” through Nepal as well as Butan, India and Pakistan. The high route crosses several alpine passes, including Lumba Sumba at nearly 17,000 feet.
It isn’t a single, continuous route but rather a network of divergent paths with a mission to spread tourism into less-visited regions. “Popular” is relative though. Maybe 20 trekkers a year tackle the GHT. We’ll likely see few people apart from climbers at the base camps and locals like the Lhomi of the Arun Valley, who still practice shamanism.
How hard is it?
Yes! The trip is rated “challenging” meant for experienced and fit backpackers. That’s because it’s expected that you’ll walk 7-9 hours per day at high altitude on everything from stone steps to cliff-edge ledges and vast snowfields. Landslides and washed-out bridges can force long detours, so flexibility is essential.
After walking New Zealand’s Te Araroa and Canada’s Great Divide Trail, I know what it’s like to walk on rough terrain! As well, in the ensuing years since my ill-fated attempt to summit Aconcagua, I’ve been been disciplined in my training to acclimate to high altitude by hydrating constantly, pacing myself, building in rest days, and taking Diamocx, the mountain climber’s little helper.
Still, I chose to join a guided group led by two professional leaders, plus a crew of porters to shoulder the gear and cooks to keep us fueled. The outfitter is UK-based, and I suspect I’m the lone American!
Following along
Will I be sending updates? Sadly, no. Once I leave Kathmandu next Tuesday, I will be off-line until mid-November. But you can follow my progress here: Track my route
And if you’d like to send encouragement, pass it along to Richard He’s my link to the outside world and the one who truly deserves credit for supporting this adventure!
2 Responses
Very impressive route! I will have you on mine prayers every day!
Thank you! Will take it slow and savor each step.