Day twenty, 14 miles
It’s dark and misty, a “Knights who say ‘ni!’” kind of day. Only Moxie and I stay in the shelter in our corners with Jeff in the middle. One mouse tries to get in her pack. Even after dropping hard to the ground, he keeps trying over and over.
She doesn’t sleep at all, but is up and at it, ready to hike up the steep ridge ahead of us before 7.
The morning, misty and spooky as it is, offers perfect hiking in cool, shaded temperatures. I’m also feeling a lot better than yesterday. One meal makes my pack lighter and I didn’t have a persistent mouse, so slept deeply. I kept thanking whomever up there needs to bd thanked that my sleeping bag dried to a crisp.
I lead uphill as usual and find first one brand new Croc followed by its partner. One of our dinner mates lost those yesterday, and so close.
Bad weather is coming and the key this morning is to get off the ridge – and two mountaintops – before 1. But it’s surprisingly easy hiking and we fly.
Normally, Big Firescald Knob has spectacular views, but not this day. There’s scrambling at the top, so I opt for the ‘Bad Weather’ alternate, essentially a sidle around on slippery and uneven rocks.
We quickly rejoin the AT, then it’s mostly down to the first shelter. A big guy passes me without a shirt, his shoulders carefully taped for any chafing. He’s happy as can be without rain here yet. It was forecast all day, so I agree, it’s a delight to be dry.
Moxie is hurting. She’s tired and her pack is ultralight so not really designed for the weight she’s carrying including a giant bear box.
We pause for water and snacks at Jerry’s Cabin shelter which is far better supplied with a broom and way more hangers for backpacks, even wood for a wee fireplace.
But our stay is brief. Today’s hike is a mission.
It’s back up steeply, sidling Big Butt mountain with views to nothingness. I pass another hiker who seems perfectly happy in this threatening weather, just as it begins to thunder.
The forest opens into an enormous meadow, trees emerging from the fog. Several hold damp blossoms giving off a glorious aroma, incongruent with the atmosphere.
It’s just a short spurt to the top, with a wee ‘Big Butt Bypass’ to avoid crawling over one boulder. The thunder continues, now in long, unending crackles and booms. It’s in the clouds and building.
Not far now to the next shelter. Our goal is to go further, but the weather is incredibly inconvenient with heavy rain and severe thunderstorms to as late as 5.
But why not race the weather and make getting to the shelter before rain a goal?
Down on the AT is often up, at least that’s how it appears until a seriously steep down. My legs are strong and I manage it, but thank goodness it’s not raining or I’d slide right off this.
One wee up of huffing and puffing, then down to the shelter – 14 miles in just over five hours. One gal is here already, Magic Pirate and we claim a spot, race down trail to get water, and then it begins to shower, a downpour.
Jeff gets here, then Gabby and an older man called Blue. It takes little time to organize ourselves and we’re all in our sleeping bags, knocked right out as the rain pours down.
In time, the skies clear and at least a dozen hikers arrive. This is truly a packed trail and so obvious when you have to use the shelters. Everyone is nice and I enjoy it, but it’s way too much for me.
I loved my camping in the early parts of the hike, just me and the birds, my thoughts, peace, talking to the goddess.
With all this rain and wanting a shelter as opposed to a damp tent, it’s like being back in college. Fun for a while but getting tiresome.
But that’s why I came for a brief time. Give it a try. Find out what it’s all about. Learn new skills. I hope making getting to Damascus is a worthy goal.
I must say, it feels amazing that my body moves this well, that I can go for so long. The rain does change my walking style in taking far fewer breaks, but sometimes just walking is enough.
Only 7:30 with a wood thrush singing loudly and I’m ready to sleep.
